DOMAINE OSTERTAG 2005 PINOT GRIS "BARRIQUES" - ALSACE 750ML

87 POINTS STEPHEN TANZER:
Pale color. Musky aromas of peach, honey, butter and spices. Fairly round in the mouth, with good spicy lift and an apparent oaky quality. Offers good texture and a suggestion of tropical fruits but showing limited personality today. Just the faintest touch of sweetness here.

On Domaine Ostertag:
André Ostertag (winemaker / owner) does not confine himself to the traditional Alsatian way of treating the varieties he has in his vineyards. His Sylvaner is in a different league from the usual dilute, overcropped wines made from this grape. His Pinot Blanc is fermented and matured for 9 months in barriques with lees stirring and malolactic fermentation, all of which contribute to its creamy softness.
Ostertag treats Pinot Gris as the Burgundian grape that it is, rather than the sweeter versions of some producers - it is always the first grape he picks, only 10 days or so after the Burgundian vintage, because he wants a dry wine with no botrytis.
His use of oak on the Heissenberg Riesling may also challenge tradition, but is simply his response to the nature of the Heissenberg vineyard. The texture and length given to the Riesling by the oak acts as would brighter acidity. Riesling from the Grand Cru Muenchberg is always classical and magnificent to boot.